1. |
Backdoor
03:23
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Where the Banzai Pipeline at the North Shore breaks to the right is called Backdoor.
Shallow reef beds and a deep channel floor when Third Reef's up it really starts to roar.
Double overhead and the surfers all look sore from bouncin' off the reef and comin' up for more.
It's a spiritual place the things it has in store when the barrel folds over and you see the hollow core.
If you need a surf fix Backdoor is the cure.
The best tube ride on the planet for sure.
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2. |
Crapped Out
01:29
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3. |
Ding Repair
02:44
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Slapped on some putty and resined it up.
Set it out to dry for a few in the sun.
When I got back from the bar it set up.
So I threw it in the back of my truck.
Ding repair x2
All I had to do was a ding repair
Ding repair x2
Sometimes the surf just treats you unfair.
Paddled out in front of a boat.
A few more inches and that's all she wrote.
A bunch of surfers say don't go over there.
Now I gotta do a ding repair.
Caught on the rocks nowhere to go.
Feelin' like a clown in a rodeo.
The waves keep poundin' in the surf don't care.
Now I gotta do a ding repair.
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4. |
Gung Ho
02:33
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There's a radical swell headed in.
He doesn't own a leash just a longboard, single fin.
It's lookin' pretty gnarly out there but it doesn't bother him.
'Cause yeah yeah yeah yeah yeah he's gung ho with a grin.
Look over there he's on his surfboard again.
Deep in the barrel pitted for nine seconds, maybe ten.
His board washed over the reef now he's body surfin'.
His buds all went home and the sun is gettin' dim but the surf just got good so the joke is on them.
Up all night on his surfboard again.
There's one thing on his mind, droppin' in.
It makes his wife mad 'cause he promised he'd be back by ten.
Drippin' wet through the kitchen once again.
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5. |
Heavy Kelp
02:09
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6. |
Restaurants
02:25
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7. |
Sandbar
02:16
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8. |
Stoked
01:40
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The T.V. said the surf is up on east facing shores.
So I started up my truck and I slammed the door.
I was almost there but I forgot my board...
'Cause I was stoked. Stoked right out of my gourd. Stoked. Like I was on the World Surf Tour. It started to rain and it started to pour but I got a rain coat now so I'm ready for more...
Yea I'm stoked. Stoked from my head to the floor. Stoked. Even though my legs are sore.
It's hard sometimes to keep my head together for sure but that doesn't matter 'cause I can hear the ocean roar...
When I'm stoked. Stoked from the day before. Stoked. Just like pro surfer Chris Ward.
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9. |
Surf Dude
02:29
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Beer on ice chillin' in the shade. In his hammock down by the bay.
Surf dude
A gentle breeze through the palm trees. Another day slippin' by. Makes a livin' out of livin' free. One less egg to fry.
Surf dude
Wind in his hair. Sand in his toes. Makes it look easy. Ridin' the nose.
Surf dude
Got no plans nowhere to be. His motto is to surf and be one with the sea.
Surf dude
Half a beer and some fish on the fire. Hawaiian tunes comin' over the wire.
Surf dude
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10. |
Surfers' Paradise
01:51
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The waves always break just right. The sun is always shinin' bright. I think that I just might go down to surfers' paradise.
Bodyboard, surf, or kite. Went fishin' and got a bite. There's a party everynight. Think I'll catch a one way flight to surfers' paradise.
The surf is really outta sight. Everybody keeps things light. Won't ever see a great white but you might wake up with a wife. In surfers' paradise.
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11. |
Tavarua
02:24
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There's a heart shaped island southwest of Hawaii where the reef breaks clean. Surfs up from Fiji.
Tava Tava Tava Rua x3
Your heartbeat's callin' me.
All the way across the sea.
Cloudbreak and it's like a dream. Solid barrels like you never seen. Pullin' out and you're gonna scream YEW!!!!
That's where I wanna be.
Every surfers destiny.
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12. |
The Surf Comes Up
02:22
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